Cambria Orchid Care and Grow (Easy Guide)

A large number of hybrid varieties of Cambria with bright large flowers find their admirers everywhere. The flower is becoming more and more popular with florists, as it is a wonderful decoration not only for home interiors, but also for offices in public buildings. The plant does not require much attention and special knowledge for successful indoor cultivation. In order for Cambria to grow healthy and annually delight you with abundant flowering, we will tell you about all the features of caring for it at home.

Cambria Orchid : how to care for indoor


For a flower, choose a place in the apartment on an ongoing basis, as it does not like frequent rearrangements. It is advisable that the pot stands by a window in the west or southwest direction. Its place should be light or slightly shady. At the western windows, the amount of sunlight will be the most favorable. 

There is too much ultraviolet radiation on the southern windowsills. Direct sunlight can burn Cambria leaves. If the house has only south-facing windows, place the flower in the back of the room in a light partial shade, or at noon protect the pot on the windowsill from the sun with blinds or light curtains. 

Daylight hours for Cambria should be about 12 hours. In winter, this indicator will have to be maintained using a phytolamp or other fluorescent lamp. During periods of conditional dormancy, it is not necessary to supplement the flower.


Summer air temperature should ideally be 18-22 degrees. heat (no higher than 25 degrees), and in winter – about 18 degrees, and day and night temperatures should not fluctuate much. The difference is 5 or more gr. not allowed. That is, at night the temperature should not drop below 14 degrees. At lower temperatures, the orchid will freeze.


The humidity of the surrounding air plays a small role in the life of the flower, although its progenitors were from the American tropics. Enough 40-60% all year round. If the air in the apartment is too dry, especially during the heating season, then it must be humidified, for example, like this: 

  • spray the area around the plant without hitting the leaves; 
  • place a wide container of water near the flower to evaporate it; 
  • cover the hot battery with damp towels; 
  • if you have a household humidifier, turn it on (if necessary).


Abundant watering of Cambria is required only during the germination of the pseudobulbs and the appearance of flower arrows. The rest of the time, watering should be moderate. We do not recommend either overfilling or completely drying the soil in a pot. The substrate should be slightly damp and dry well between waterings. In the summer, we water on average once a week.

For watering, use both conventional surface watering and the immersion method. Do it like this: put the Cambria pot in a bowl or other container larger than the pot size, pour water suitable for watering there to the middle of the pot or slightly higher (provided there are good drainage holes in the bottom of the pot). After 15-20 minutes. remove the pot from the basin and let the excess water drain off. When Cambria has bloomed and is at rest, it can be left submerged in water for a longer time.


Taking into account the peculiarities of watering Cambria, when nutrients are constantly washed out of the soil, they should be replenished in a timely manner with the help of mineral and organic fertilizers created specifically for orchids. They are composed of amino acids and vitamins, potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. The acidity indicator should be at a pH level of 5-7. These fertilizers help to improve the immune system of orchids.

During the growing season, in spring and autumn, when young shoots appear, we recommend feeding the plant once every 15 days with liquid fertilizers for orchids. In summer or winter, during flowering, do feeding less often, once a month. Add fertilizers to the water while diving. Measure the dose of the drug strictly according to the instructions – follow the manufacturer’s instructions. 

Conventional complex mineral fertilizers for flowering indoor plants are not suitable – they are too concentrated, they can burn the delicate roots of the Cambria orchid.


Different varieties of Cambria have different flowering times and durations. Some bloom once a year, others two or more. Most often, the flowering periods are in the autumn-winter time, but some hybrids also bloom in early summer. Novice growers usually do not know why their orchid does not bloom for several years or whether their orchid that has faded in spring will bloom again. Let’s try to figure it out.

The life cycle of Cambrian hybrids is provided by pseudobulbs. Before blooming, the pseudobulb freezes for a while, then begins to fill with juice and increase in size. After a while, flower stalks begin to grow at its base, on which flowers subsequently bloom. After flowering, the pseudobulb dries up, but a new sprout begins to form at its base. Thus, the life cycle is repeated.

Diseases and pests:

Cambria is most often attacked by scale insects, spider mites, aphids and scale insects. The last of them are quite dangerous parasites. If you do not fight them, then the flower may die. More often than others, insects infect weakened specimens of Cambria, which have not been properly cared for. If you find pests, take the flower pot to the bathroom and wash the parasites along with the larvae and eggs under the shower down the drain. Then treat all leaves and peduncles with soapy water. Remove the shield by hand with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. In any case, the fight is more effective with the use of appropriate insecticides: Fitoverm, Aktellik, Aktara and many others.

After buying for a couple of weeks, isolate Cambria from other plants, treat with drugs against possible diseases and pests. When pruning dry peduncles or pseudobulbs, as well as other manipulations with shoots or roots of a plant, carefully treat all tools with alcohol or manganese so as not to introduce any infection into the wounds.


For a Cambrian orchid, a non-transparent pot is better suited, since its roots do not participate in photosynthesis. A good choice would be ceramic, unglazed – to avoid stagnation of moisture and, as a result, root rot. The pot for the bush should be selected in such a size that its root system is evenly distributed throughout the entire volume, and there is space left to the walls of the pot for its growth. If the pot is small, then the overgrown roots simply will not have room to develop in a healthy way. But too large a pot for a small plant is also not acceptable – the substrate in it will sour.

How to Propagate Cambria at home 

If you are thinking about breeding Cambria, you should start by buying a mature and healthy bush in a specialized store from experienced orchid growers. The plant should be carefully inspected for disease or pests. If you do not find such, then you can hope that the plant will give a good “offspring” in the future.

 Breeding Cambria is risky for a beginner in floriculture. Carefully read our recommendations so as not to cripple the orchid or, God forbid, ruin it. Plan this activity in early spring, combine it with a transplant, preferably at the beginning of the period of root activity or shortly before it. It is easier to propagate an orchid with small roots so that the ends can enter the new substrate on their own.

By Dividing the Bushes: 

  • Remove the flower from the pot and carefully peel the delicate roots from the soil. If the substrate is heavily caked, water it in advance, then it will be easier to free the roots. 
  • Examine the roots for damage or rot. Cut off suspicious areas. Treat the sections with activated charcoal or charcoal. 
  • Divide the orchid into parts with your hands or using a sharp, clean tool (knife or scissors) so that each part has its own roots and at least three shoots. Process the sections in the same way. 
  • First air dry each part and then place in your pot and cover with substrate. Note that the prepared substrate should be well watered before planting so that it is completely saturated with water. We do not recommend watering after planting for a week, at least, and start feeding after a month. Instead of watering, plants should be sprayed with soft water, being careful to moisten their leaves well. 
  • To help new Cambria stick in the ground, attach them to supports until they take root on their own.

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